Frommer''s Bermuda [2010]

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LIST OF MAPS
vi
 The Best Beaches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
 The Best Outdoor Pursuits. . . . . . . . . . 6
 The Best Dive Sites . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
 The Best Golf Courses . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
 The Best Tennis Facilities . . . . . . . . . . .8
 The Best Day Hikes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
 The Best Sailing Outfitters . . . . . . . . . .9
 The Best Views . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
 The Best Historic Sites. . . . . . . . . . . . .10
 The Best Old Bermuda
Experiences. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
 Bermuda’s Best-Kept Secrets . . . . . .11
 The Best Resorts for
Honeymooners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
 The Best Places to Stay
for Families . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
 The Best Hotel Bargains . . . . . . . . . . .14
 The Best Restaurants . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
WHAT’S NEW IN BERMUDA 1
1 THE BEST OF BERMUDA 3
 Bermuda Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
 Looking Back at Bermuda . . . . . . . . .21
Bermuda’s Famous People . . . . . . . . . . 24
The Baffling Bermuda Triangle . . . . . . 26
 Bermuda Art & Architecture . . . . . . .29
Did You Know?. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
 The Lay of the Land . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
 Bermuda in Popular Culture . . . . . . .35
 Dining, Bermuda Style . . . . . . . . . . . .40
3 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO
2 BERMUDA IN DEPTH 16
 When to Go. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
Destination Bermuda: Pre-Departure
Checklist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
Bermuda Calendar of Events . . . . . . . . 45
Getting Sucked In: The Official Word
on the Bermuda Triangle . . . . . . . . . . . 46
 Entry Requirements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49
 Getting There & Getting Around . . .51
Getting Through the Airport . . . . . . . . 53
 Money & Costs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .61
The Value of the Bermuda Dollar vs.
Other Popular Currencies . . . . . . . . . . . 62
What Things Cost in Bermuda . . . . . . 63
 Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64
3 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO BERMUDA 43
iv
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Don’t Get Burned: Smart
Tanning Tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
 Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66
Frommers.com: The Complete
Travel Resource . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
 Specialized Travel Resources . . . . . .68
House-Swapping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71
 Sustainable Tourism . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71
General Resources for Green Travel. . . . 72
 Packages for the Independent
Traveler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .73
 Staying Connected. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74
 Planning an Island Wedding
or Honeymoon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .75
 The Parishes of Bermuda . . . . . . . . . .77
Island-Hopping on Your Own. . . . . . . 84
 The Best of Bermuda in 1 Day . . . . .85
Rattle & Shake: The Bermuda
Railway Trail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88
 The Best of Bermuda in 2 Days . . . .89
 The Best of Bermuda in 3 Days . . . .93
4 SUGGESTED ITINERARIES 77
 Resort Hotels. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101
 Small Hotels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109
 Cottage Colonies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112
Family-Friendly
Accommodations. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .114
 Housekeeping Units . . . . . . . . . . . . 117
 Guesthouses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120
5 WHERE TO STAY 97
 Restaurants by Cuisine . . . . . . . . . . 125
 Sandys Parish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128
 Southampton Parish . . . . . . . . . . . . 132
 Warwick Parish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137
 Paget Parish. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138
 City of Hamilton
(Pembroke Parish). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139
Family-Friendly Restaurants. . . . . . . .146
 Smith’s Parish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150
 Hamilton Parish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
 St. George’s Parish. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154
6 WHERE TO DINE 124
 Beaches. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157
 Snorkeling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162
A Look Under Bermuda’s Waters . . .163
 Scuba Diving. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163
A Yacht of Your Very
Own . . . Sort of. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .165
 More Fun in the Water . . . . . . . . . . 166
Hanging Out with the Dolphins . . .168
 Where to Play World-
Class Golf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169
 Other Outdoor Pursuits . . . . . . . . . 173
Exploring Bermuda’s Natural
Wonderlands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .175
 Spectator Sports . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175
7 FUN IN THE SURF & SUN 157
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 Island Highlights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179
 Organized Tours. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180
Frommer’s Favorite Bermuda
Experiences. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .181
 Sandys Parish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184
Especially for Kids . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .185
A Park of Your Own . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .187
Stepping Back into the Ice Age . . . . .189
 Southampton Parish . . . . . . . . . . . . 189
 Warwick Parish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189
 Paget Parish. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190
 Pembroke Parish & the City
of Hamilton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191
African Diaspora Heritage Trail. . . . .193
 Devonshire Parish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196
 Smith’s Parish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196
 Hamilton Parish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197
 St. George’s Parish. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198
Special Places Where You Can
Be Alone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .200
St. George: A World Heritage Site. . .202
8 SEEING THE SIGHTS 178
 The Shopping Scene . . . . . . . . . . . . 206
 In the City of Hamilton . . . . . . . . . . 207
Counterculture Shopping . . . . . . . . . .213
 Around the Island. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215
9 SHOPPING 205
 The Club & Music Scene . . . . . . . . 218
 The Bar Scene. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219
 The Performing Arts. . . . . . . . . . . . . 222
10 BERMUDA AFTER DARK 218
 Accomodations Index. . . . . . . . . . . 244  Restaurant Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245
APPENDIX A: FAST FACTS 224
APPENDIX B: CLOTHING SIZE CONVERSIONS 232
INDEX 234
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Where to Dine in the City
of Hamilton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141
Where to Dine in St. George . . . . . 155
Bermuda’s Best Public Beaches &
Snorkel Sites . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .158
Bermuda’s Best Golf Courses . . . . . 170
Attractions Around the Island . . . .182
Shopping in the City
of Hamilton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209
Bermuda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Looking Back at Bermuda . . . . . . . . . 22
Bermuda’s Parishes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78
Bermuda in 1 Day . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87
Bermuda in 2 Days . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91
Bermuda in 3 Days . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95
Where to Stay in Bermuda . . . . . . . 102
Where to Stay in the City
of Hamilton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105
Where to Dine in Bermuda . . . . . . . 130
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As a team of veteran travel writers, Darwin Porter and Danforth Prince have pro-
duced numerous titles for Frommer’s, including guides to Italy, France, the Caribbean,
England, Germany, and Spain. A film critic, ne wspaper columnist, and radio broad-
caster, Porter is also a Hollywood biographer, author of at least four critically acclaimed
overviews of little-known aspects of, among others, Humphrey Bogart, Katharine Hep-
burn, and Howard Hughes. Porter’s 2006 biography of Marlon Brando (Brando
Unzipped) was cited by London’s Sunday Times as “one of the best show-biz biographies
of the year.” Prince was formerly employed by the Paris bureau of the New York Times,
and is today the president of Blood Moon Productions and other media-related firms.
Porter and Prince’s latest project, Hollywood Babylon—IT’S BACK!!, released in 2008,
presents a “brainy but prurient” overview of celebrity excess, as filtered through 75 years
of Hollywood scandal.
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In researching this book, w e discovered many wonder ful places—hotels, r estaurants, shops,
and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the informa-
tion with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recom-
mendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to:
Frommer’s Bermuda 2010
Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774
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Please be advised that trav el information is subject to change at any time—and this is espe-
cially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when
making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held r esponsible for
the experiences of r eaders while trav eling. Your safety is impor tant to us, ho wever, so w e
encourage you to stay aler t and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close ey e on cameras,
purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.

Frommer’s Cruises & Ports of Call
The Unofficial Guide to Cruises
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Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality , value,
service, amenities, and special featur es using a star-rating system. I n countr y, state, and
regional guides, w e also rate to wns and r egions to help y ou narrow down your choices and
budget y our time accor dingly. H otels and r estaurants ar e rated on a scale of z ero (r ecom-
mended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, to wns, and regions are
rated accor ding to the follo wing scale: z ero stars (r ecommended), one star (highly r ecom-
mended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see).
In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature icons that point you to the
great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate trav elers from tourists.
Throughout the book, look for:
Finds

Special finds—those places only insiders know about
Fun Facts

Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun
Kids

Best bets for kids and advice for the whole family
Moments

Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of
Overrated

Places or experiences not worth your time or money
Tips

Insider tips—great ways to save time and money
Value

Great values—where to get the best deals
The following abbreviations are used for credit cards:
AE American Express DISC D iscover V Visa
DC D iners Club MC M asterCard
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Frommer’s travel resources don’t end with this guide. Frommers.com has travel information
on more than 4,000 destinations. We update features regularly, giving you access to the most
current trip-planning information and the best air fare, lodging, and car-rental bargains. You
can also listen to podcasts, connect with other F rommers.com members through our active-
reader forums, share your travel photos, read blogs from guidebook editors and fellow travelers,
and much more.
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In the R eef Hotel, a
formal r estaurant, Royston’s, has opened
at 56 South Rd. (
&
441/238-0222), serv-
ing a r efined, full-flavored, and inv entive
continental cuisine. I t’s one of the best
choices for dining in a hotel on the island.
The chef uses locally made products when
available, ev en marinating poultr y dishes
in Bermudian black rum.
One of B ermuda’s former best r estau-
rants, La Coquille, has been transformed
into the ev en better Broadway Bistro at
Coquille, East B roadway in H amilton
(
&
441/292-6122), serving one of Bermu-
da’s best French cuisines. The chef pr efers
old-time bistr o fav orites familiar to all
those who’ve been to P aris. D ishes range
from steak frites to frog legs provençale.
At the delux e Tucker’s Point Hotel &
Spa, 60 Tucker’s Point Club Dr. (
&
441/
298-9800), the swanky Point Restaurant
has opened to acclaim with its first-rate
Mediterranean cuisine. A seasoned chef
treats local pr oduce with car e in classic,
technically precise dishes. The decor cele-
brates the maritime heritage of B ermuda,
centering on an extraor dinary and large
mural. Favored guests eat in the kitchen at
the chef ’s table.
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At long last the
Port Royal Golf Course, 5 Middle Rd. in
Southampton (
&
441/234-0974), has
been restored at the cost of several million
dollars. O riginally designed b y R obert
Trent Jones, Sr., in 1970, it has been made
better than ever, reopening in the summer
of 2009. Its 15th and 16th holes are just as
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The most opul ent
hotel in the histor y of Bermuda, Tucker’s
Point H otel & S pa, 60 Tucker’s P oint
Club Dr. (
&
866/604-3764 or 441/298-
9800), made its debut in the spring of
2009. It was r econstructed on the site of
the Castle H arbour Club, once the most
famous hotel in B ermuda. S et on 200
landscaped acres, the hotel is the epitome
of r esort luxur y. C reative styling fairly
oozes out of the place, and its centerpiece
is a balconied, big-windowed manor house
filled with contemporary art.
Across the harbor fr om the capital of
Hamilton, Bay C ity G uest H ouse, 53
Pitts Rd. (
&
441/295-1275), has no pool
nor beach, but it ’s a bright, air y, well-run
place to stay . I n a former mansion, its
bedrooms open onto scenic vie ws of the
harbor. Accommodations are traditionally
furnished and quite spacious.
An old B ermuda home, Erith G uest
House, 15 P omander Rd. (
&
441/232-
1827), has been transformed into the lat-
est B&B to open on the island. G uest
rooms ar e ex ceedingly bright and w ell
maintained, with comfortable furnishings,
even a kitchenette. A swimming pool and
hot tub are found in the cour tyard.
On the South Shore, Clairfont Apart-
ments, 6 Warwickshire Rd. (
&
441/238-
3577), is one of the most affor dable
accommodations on the island, r enting
eight w ell-maintained units with a sepa-
rate living and dining ar ea. I t caters to
self-sufficient types, and lies only a 5-min-
ute walk from a beach of pink sands.
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2
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especially scuba div ers and under water
photographers. G uests on this luxur y
vessel occupy one of thr ee en-suite state-
rooms and dine on a cuisine prepared by a
highly skilled chef . I t’s also possible for
other vacationers to call and try to arrange
a sumptuous dinner aboard the yacht.
beautiful but also as “ dangerous” as ev er.
They are played on windy cliff tops o ver-
looking Whale Bay.
In another dev elopment, the char tered
yacht, M.Y. Bermuda IV, N o. 3 S towe
Hill in P aget Parish (
&
441/232-7000),
is no w accepting liv e-aboard guests,
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If you’ve decided that Bermuda sounds like the per fect place to relax, feel

free to star t unwinding right no w, because w e’ve done all the legwor k for y ou. Below
you’ll find our carefully compiled lists of the best that Bermuda has to offer, from beaches
and dive sites to r esorts, restaurants, and sightseeing—and nearly ev erything else y ou’ll
want to see and do. For the locations of many of these items, see the maps “ The Best of
Outdoor Bermuda” and “Bermuda’s Best Accommodations” at the front of this book.
1
Your first priority on y our Bermuda vaca-
tion probably will be to kick back at the
beach. B ut which beach? H otels often
have private stretches of sand, which we’ve
described in each accommodations r eview
(see chapter 5). There are many fine public
beaches as w ell. H ere’s our top-10 list,
arranged clockwise ar ound the island,
beginning with the south-shor e beaches
closest to the City of H amilton. For loca-
tions, see the color map “ The B est of
Outdoor B ermuda” at the fr ont of this
book, and for more details, see chapter 7.
• Elbow Beach (Paget Parish): The pale
pink sand stretches for almost a mile at
Elbow Beach, one of the most popular
beaches in B ermuda. A t least thr ee
hotels sit on its perimeter. Because pro-
tective coral r eefs surr ound it, E lbow
Beach is one of the safest beaches on the
island for swimming. See p. 157.
• Warwick Long B ay (Warwick Parish):
This popular beach, on the south side
of S outh S hore P ark, featur es a half-
mile stretch of sand against a backdr op
of scr ubland and lo w grasses. D espite
frequent winds, an offshor e r eef keeps
the waves surprisingly small. Less than
60m (200 ft.) offshor e, a jagged coral
island appears to be floating abo ve the
water. There is ex cellent snor keling
here—the waters ar e clear and marine
life comes in close to shore. See p. 159.
• Chaplin Bay (Warwick and Southamp-
ton parishes): At the southern extremity
of S outh S hore P ark, straddling the
boundary of two parishes, this small
but secluded beach almost completely
disappears during storms and par ticu-
larly high tides. An open-air coral bar-
rier rises fr om the water , par tially
separating one half of the beach fr om
the other. See p. 160.
• Horseshoe Bay (Southampton Parish):
This is B ermuda’s most famous beach,
and it ’s one of the best for families.
Unlike most island beaches, H orseshoe
Bay has a lifeguar d on duty fr om May
to S eptember. The Horseshoe B ay
Beach Cafe (
&
441/238-2651) offers
complete facilities, including waters-
ports equipment rental. See p. 160.
• Church Bay (Southampton Parish): If
you like to snor kel, this southw estern
beach is for y ou. The r elatively calm
waters, sheltered by offshore reefs, har-
bor a variety of marine life, and a con-
cession stand sells snacks and r ents
snorkel gear . S unbathers lo ve the
unusually deep , pink sands of this
beach. See p. 161.
• Somerset Long B ay (S andys P arish):
The waters off this beach ar e often
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4
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1
SANDYS
WARWICK
DEVONSHIRE
HAMILTON
Smith’s
Island

H
a
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P E M B R O K E
P A G E T
Botanical
Gardens
WARWICK
Harbour Rd.




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SOUTHAMPTON
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St. George
ST. GEORGE’S
Somerset
Village
ATLANTIC
OCEAN
Great
Sound
Little Sound
Mangrove
Bay
Ely’s
Harbour
Hamilton
Harbour
Ferry










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Watford
Bridge
Somerset
Bridge
Botanical
Gardens
Somerset
Village
Hamilton
Ireland Island N.
Darrell
Island
Hawkins
Island
Long
Island
Ports
Island
Hinson
Island
Ireland Island S.
SANDYS
WARWICK
PAGET
SOUTHAMPTON
Harbour Rd.
Front St.
B
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Airport
N
3 mi0
0 3 km
Bermuda
unsafe for swimming, but its isolation
will appeal to any one who wants to
escape the cr owds. With about a quar-
ter-mile of sand, the cr escent-shaped
beach is ideal for strolling. The undevel-
oped parkland of Sandys Parish shelters
it from the rest of the island. See p. 161.
• Shelly Bay (Hamilton Parish): On the
north shore, you’ll discover calm waters
and soft, pink sand—and y ou’ll want
for nothing else. This beach is w ell-
known among beach buffs, but it ’s
rarely overcrowded and there’s always a
spot in the sun just waiting for you. See
p. 161.
• Tobacco B ay (S t. G eorge’s P arish): A
popular stretch of pale pink sand, this is
the most fr equented beach on S t.
George’s Island. It offers lots of facilities,